Of course, all this takes time – weeks on end. It’s not cheap to keep a dedicated space, refrigerated to exactly the right temperature, with air circulating at the required rate. Meat shrinks during ageing, as the water evaporates, and there’s the wastage from the trimmings to take into account, too. Not much wonder some people cut corners in the maturation process. Not Donald Russell, though – it’s something we set great store by, and take pride in, too. It’ll always be ‘well hung’ with us!